Sabarimala (0929 North 7706 East) is situated in the midst of 18 hills, in a bowl of land blessed with a small rivulet named `Urakuzhi Theertham'. The area is in the hilly regions east of Kerala bordering Tamilnadu. Elevation above mean sea level is approximately 1260 Metres/4135 Ft. Temples existed in each of the hills surrounding Sabarimala. While functional (and intact temples) exist at many places in surrounding areas like Nilackal, Kalaketi, Inchiparakotta and Karimala, remnants of old temples are visible in the remaining hills.
As advised by the Lord, the Raja of Pandalam constructed the Ayyappa temple at Sabarimala. It is also believed that there already existed the DharmaSastha temple at Sabarimala, one of the 64 temples established by Parasurama, and Lord Ayyappa merged into the deity there. The King (Raja) of Pandalam renovated/ reconstructed the temple, supervising the work by staying at Perunadu. He constructed an Ayyappa temple there also for performing his daily pooja of the Lord. Deities of Malikappurathamma, Kadutha swami and Vaver swami were installed as also the 'pathinettampadi' (holy 18 steps) and 'bhasmakulam'.
Sannidhanam is the area where the Ayyappa temple is situated. At Sannidhanam, devotees climb up the holy 18 steps to reach the Sanctum sanctorum. Arrangements are made for the devotees to crack coconuts on the right side of the steps. Now cracking of coconuts on the 18 steps is prohibited for safety reasons. The Malikappuram temple complex, sub temple of Vavar, Neyyabhishekam counters, prasadam counters, information centres, telephone and post office facility etc. are visible in and around Sannidhanam.
The Eighteen Steps: The Holy eighteen steps that lead to the shrine have been figuratively called Ponnu Pathinettampadi. ''Ponnu'' as an epithet denotes the holy touch of the Lord's feet. But now the epithet ''Ponnu'' has become literally true because the steps have been covered with gold coloured Panchaloham. Only those who observe 41 days penance and carry ''Irumudi Kettu'' can climb these divine steps. Climbing the 18 steps from the foot of the temple to reach the sanctum sanctorum for holy darshan is considered an important privilege of every devotee. The Pathinettampadi (18 steps) represents the eighteen stages one has to pass through to attain ''Moksha'' (salvation).
Malikappurthamma: Malikappurathamma is also known as Manjamatha. In importance She is next to Ayyappaswamy. The Manjamatha kovil is situated on the northwestern side of the main Sree Kovil. It is connected to Sannidhanam by an attractive fly over. The temple of Malikapuram faces east, while the Kochukadutha Swamy shrine faces west. The Nagadevas are there in the premises of Malikappuram Temple, whereas the abode of the Navagrahas on its north western side.
Bhasmakkulam (Place for sacred dip): One sacred place for bath at Sabarimala is Bhasmakulam. This is on the western side of the Sannidhanam. Pilgrims get purified by their dip in the holy water here. Legend says that Sabari entered the fire in the presence of Sri Rama and as a result her mortal remains were consumed. This pond has its name derived from this legend. The water in the pond is ever kept fresh and clean in spite of the constant use by pilgrims. Using oil and soap here are prohibited.
Neythoni: For those pilgrims who do not wish to take back the ghee they bring inside the coconut, there is a container called Neythoni(Ghee Canoe) into which they can pour out the ghee. It is placed near the Sreekovil. No payment is required for depositing the ghee in the Neythoni.
Urakkuzhi Theertham: The next place consecreated for holy bath is Kumbalam Thodu with Urakuzhi Theertham in it. This holy canal is about one km North of Malikapuram. This place is believed to be the most sacred place where Dharmasastha revealed himself in his Viswaroopa. Here there is a waterfall and a small creek in to which the water drains.This creek is named Urakuzhi. It seems to be a small hole. But when one sits in its bosom, it appears to be spacious enough to give a cool dip. It is believed that a bath in the Urakuzhi theertham washes off all the sins.
Coconut Aazhi (Homa kundam): There is a Homakundam (coconut aazhi) close to the main shrine in front of the pathinettampadi. A Homakundam is erected toward north-east of the holy 18 steps. After removing ghee for Neyyabhishakam the pilgrims throw the remaining coconuts into this sacred fireplace.
Makarajyothi: The most glorious sight at Sabarimala is the 'Makarajyothi'. It is actually the shining of a star in the evening of the day on which the Sun passes from the Equator to the South - the most auspicious moment in a year. On the Makaravilakku day, the ''MAKARAJYOTHI'' is seen at Ponnambalameedu situated towards east from Sabarimala. Thousands of devotees reach Sannidhanam to have the sacred darshan of Makarajyothi.
PILGRIMAGE
Mandalapooja(Nov.15th)and Makaravilakku(Jan.14th)are the two main events of the pilgrim season. The temple stays closed during the rest of the year except for the first five days of every Malayalam month and during Vishu (April).
Certain customs are to be strictly observed if one has to undertake a pilgrimage to Sabarimala. A pilgrim attending the Mandalapooja should observe austerities for 41 days. During this period, the pilgrim should abstain himself from non- vegetarian habits and cardinal pleasures.
Pilgrims set out in groups under a leader, and each carry a cloth bundle called Irumudi kettu containing traditional offerings. Unlike certain Hindu temples, Sabarimala temple has no restrictions of caste or creed. The temple is open to males of all age groups and to women who have either passed their fertility age and those before reaching the stage of puberty.
STORY OF SWAMY AYYAPPA
The Maharaja of Pandalam was very sad and unhappy because he had no off spring. He had done many poojas and homas in order to get a son. But all went in vain. One day while hunting, the Pandalam Raja found on the bank of the river a charming child - really a divine baby. He took the child to the palace and brought him up as his own, calling him ''Manikanta'' as he wore a glittering necklace.
The queen of Pandalam did not like the action of the Raja, but she wisely hid her displeasure from the Raja and others. Soon she gave birth to a child and the Raja named him Rajendra, it is stated. The two children grew up as children of the same parents but Manikantan excelled the royal Prince in all respects. No wonder the queen's displeasure grew stronger every day. She secretly planned to do away with Manikantan, but her attempt failed. In course of time the Raja decided to make Manikantan, the elder of the two children, the heir apparent to the kingdom. The queen resented this, but she was helpless.
The King had a wicked minister who had a strong dislike for Manikantan. He came to help the queen. He advised her to feign serious illness. Physicians were consulted and one of them, the Minister's own man, prescribed leopards milk as the only remedy for the disease. But who was there to undertake the task of fetching leopard's milk.
Manikantan readily agreed. With great reluctance the Raja gave permission and the boy proceeded to the forest alone carrying on his head an "Irumudikettu' (a bag with two compartments containing articles of food)..
When the Lord reached the forest, the Devas who were harassed by Mahishi approached the Lord as advised by Brahma and implored him to save them from Mahishi. The Lord met Mahishi in battle and killed her. The corpse was taken to the hill ''Azhutha'' and covered with sand and stones. Pilgrims proceeding to Sabarimala through Azhutha even now throw a stone at the place which is known as ''Kallidumkunnu''. The Lord who came out victorious in the battle with Mahishi was placed on a ''palanquin'' by the Bhoothas who came to witness the battle and there were great rejoicings.
The ''Pettathullal'' conducted at Erumeli is believed to be a reminiscence of the fight between the Lord and Mahishi, and the consequent rejoicings. The place name ''Erumeli'' is derived from the word ''Eruma'' which is Malayalam for buffalo or ''Mahishi''.
When the battle was over, Lord Siva appeared before Manikantan and reminded him of the fact that the object of his birth had been fulfilled and that he should return to Pandalam with leopard's milk and enlighten the Raja by giving him an idea of the object of the birth. Lord Ayyappa returned to Pandalam leading a herd of leopards and requested the Raja to make use of their milk. All present were struck dumb with fear and they requested Manikantan to drive the leopards away. As Manikantan showed the gesture they at once disappeared. The queen, the wicked minister and all present craved pardon and he blessed them all. He also revealed to the Raja who he was, and why he took birth, and gave him blessings.
The Raja implored the Lord to reside permanently within his territory and bless his kingdom. The Lord agreed to this and advised the ruler to construct a temple at the place on the western side of the Neelimala. The Lord also ordained that devotees who would visit the temple carrying ''Irumutikettu'' and an arrow for protection against wild animals and performing bali (oblation) at Pampa would attain Moksha. After this the Lord aimed an arrow to the east and both the Lord and the arrow disappeared.
The name Sabarimala is believed to have derived from the sage Sabari of Ramayana times. It was on the west side of the Neelimala, where Sabari the saint had done severe penance, that Ayyappa temple was consructed.
The shrine of Malikappuram on the western side of the Sabarimala temple is dedicated to Mahishi, otherwise known as ''Manjambika'' Manjamatha).
PLACES OF INTEREST
NILACKAL MAHADEVAR TEMPLE: This is an important Temple enroute to Sabarimala and located between Plappally and Pampa. This is an intermediate halting area (with parking facilities).
ERUMELI SASTHA TEMPLE: Erumeli Sastha Temple, an important meeting place in the pilgrimage trip to Sabarimala is famous on many counts. There is also a Muslim Temple very near to the Sastha Temple. Ayyappans go to Sabarimala after worshipping at these two temples, that symbolise the Hindu-Muslim unity. The pilgrims go to Sabarimala after 'Pettathullal' at Erumeli. Pilgrimage to Sabarimala without Pettathullal and worship at the above mentioned temples is against the traditional dogmas. Erumeli Temple is at a distance of 38 Kms from Kottayam. Nearest Railway station is Kottayam.
PANDALAM VALIYAKOYICKAL TEMPLE: According to legend Ayyaappa as a babe was found lying on the banks of the river Pampa, by the Raja of Pandalam. The Raja had no issue and the child was considered as a God-given gift. It was therefore brought up in court with all regal honours. Ayyappan grew up endowed with heavenly splendour, super human wisdom and physical powers. Sree Dharmaa Sastha of Pandalam Valiyakoyickal Temple is Dharma Deva to King to Pandalam. One of the Major events associated with the Makaravilakku Festival is the procession of the Thiruvabharanam of Lord Ayyappa from this Temple. The nearest town and railway station is Chengannoor-12 Kms away.
KULATHUPUZHA SASTHA TEMPLE: The Sastha Temple at Kulathupuzha is a very ancient one. The idol at Kulathupuzha is called 'Manikantan'. It is believed that the Temple was constructed by the Raja of Pandalam. But the idol was discovered by a Brahmin from Kottarakkara after several years and he started pooja there. The King of Kottarakkara heard about this and he constructed the present temple. Feeding the fishes in the nearby river is an important vazhipadu in the Temple.
ACHANKOIL SASTHA TEMPLE: Achankoil Sastha (Arachan) temple is a sacred place of worship where pilgrims from Kerala and Tamilnadu come in groups through out the year. According to a legend the God gave 'Darshan' to a worshipper who had undertaken long term penance at Kandamala, where the the present temple stands. The main festival season here comes during the Mandalam puja. The nearest town and railway station is Shenkottah-Tamil Nadu.
ARYANKAVU SASTHA TEMPLE: The legend behind the Ayyappa of Aryankavu is similar to that of Sabarimala Sree Dharma Sastha. The only difference between the two is that Sastha was brough up by the Pandi Raja of Madura and not the Raja of Pandalam. The temple is constructed about 35 feet below the road level. It is at a distance of 2 kms from the majestic Pallaruvi waterfalls located in the deep dense forests. It is believed that Ayyappa had relationship with Sourashtrans while living in the palace of Raja of Madura. Even now Sourashtrans reach here in groups during the time of Mandalapooja. The temple rests 86 Kms away from Thiruvananthapuram.